Monday was a super special day as it was the day that we met Juanjo so we could travel off of the resort to go see the ruins of Ek Balam and swim in two cave cenotes. For me, it was the highlight of the trip! Sure I loved all of the pampering and luxury that the resort offered us, but I was really excited to get to see more of ‘real Mexico’ and to experience the Mayan ruins. We met Juanjo at 7:00 and it was like we were meeting our long lost uncle. He is an amazing man-- and he seemed as excited to see us again as we were to see him! Throughout the whole day he was so kind and patient, attentive to everyone’s needs-- from Isaac all the way to Grandma and Grandpa. He is so easily able to anticipate what is needed and make it happen. Needless to say it made the day so very relaxing.
We headed out on our two hour trip west on the Mexican highway. We saw a lot of jungle on the way -- and even saw some up close as we stopped to let Isaac pee out on the side of the road! We passed by a few small country towns and saw a butcher shop with meat hanging over the counter just out in the open. There were convenience stores and restaurants, homes and even a Mormon church! Everything seemed very simple. There were many bright colors painted on signs but it was easy to tell that these were poorer communities. There were stray dogs running around in small packs. We were observing a little of Mexico beyond the gates of the lush resort.
We pulled into a gravel driveway with wooden painted sign. “Ek Balam”. I could feel my excitement building as we piled out of the van and headed to the welcome center. Juanjo hired a native guide who had so much interesting information to share with us. I wish I could, but can’t possibly remember all that he told us! One thing I do remember is that he spoke in his native tongue for us a few times and I was mesmerized as I imagined the Mayans of long ago speaking the same dialect. K’s are pronounced very strongly and almost with a breath inward. Ek Balam means ‘black jaguar’. He told us that the grounds within the walls were for royalty only. That the poor lived outside in thatched huts called palapas. Many Mayans today that live in that area live in similar types of homes. They were very calculated people and each room and area had a distinct purpose. They loved chocolate and believed that it was sacred. The reason some of the structures (like the entrance arch) are built with a ramp is because you were heading up towards someone (a priest or royalty) and you were expected to show respect and bow. The ramp automatically put you in a position where you were bowing towards the ground. I wonder if that is why structures like the acropolis were so steep… you had to go slow and you were showing respect by looking at the ground? Maybe. I also learned that at the foot of the acropolis- the largest structure on site-- there was a steam bath. Priests would go into the steam bath to bathe themselves so they were clean before they approached and entered or climbed the acropolis. Our guide also told us that there are five mapped “white roads” made of crushed limestone that connected Ek Balam with temples in other Mayan cities--- like Chichen Itza and Coba. You can see the remnants of part of it at the entrance arch. The stones were white because they reflected the moonlight and could easily be seen allowing for travel in the dark. When I asked if they were friendly with the other cities, the guide told me they traded with each other but were not ‘friends’ and in fact typically didn’t like each other.
The kids were able to climb on 95% of the ruins that were there. It made Andy and I (mostly me…) really nervous, as there weren’t any railings. Some of the drops were very high. The one attempt at protecting the explorers adventurous enough to climb the Acropolis were super rickety. (yeah, they wouldn’t have stopped someone from going over.) But overall, as long as you weren’t fooling around, you were safe exploring.
The bone colored stucco carvings located about halfway to the top of the Acropolis were spectacular. They were ornate and detailed and almost mesmerizing. Along with shapes and objects, there are also people placed throughout the scene (maybe warriors or royalty). Some depicted the deformities that many of the members of royalty possessed due to inbreeding. One warrior in particular had only 4 fingers and arms of differing lengths. The royal tomb of the great ruler Ukit Kan Le'k Tok' was discovered behind the imposing open mouth of what is believed to be a jaguar, as the name Ek Balam means black jaguar. The large teeth and open mouth house the doorway to this tomb and represent the entrance to the underworld. It is interesting to note that these carvings were discovered hidden behind stone walls. Evidence suggests that many of the other buildings and walls were covered in ornate colorful carvings as well, however they were all lost due to the elements of time and weather. It is believed that these carvings were at one time covered in brightly colored paint as well.
Only about a square mile of this city has been excavated-- it covers a much larger area-- estimated to be between 4 and 8 miles. 17 buildings are currently excavated but there are several hundred buildings, causeways and walls. It wasn’t uncommon to see large mounds sitting only feet away from these excavated ruins. They were obvious from the top of the Acropolis as well. The jungle still claims these structures and right now we were told the government claims it does not have money to fund the excavations. The excavations currently completed were done during summers, mostly by Bill Ringle, an anthropology professor in the United States with a crew of anthropology students and local farmers who were paid to help. The Mexican Government stepped in and did some work during Ringle’s off season in once it determined the potential as a tourist attraction. It was in 1986 that Ringle and his crew began to awaken Ek Balam. I hope someday someone will be able to complete this project! Ek Balam simply fascinates me. Needless to say, I will someday return!!
